Day twenty four -Phu Quoc Isand...and feeling very much at home.

Tuesday January 15 2013

It hasn't taken us too long to settle into the relaxed lifestyle here. To be honest we had read mixed reports about the island...and our resort...but we absolutely love it here. We had considered doing a tour today. There are some beautiful and remote beaches here, a sad and probably frightening prison remains where Viet Cong were held in appalling conditions, and there's a beautiful national park. I guess if we were here without the boys we might hire a motorbike for the day and explore the island...but we are all enjoying such relaxing and unhurried days that we choose to spend this one in much the same way.

We have our usual buffet breakfast...delicious Pho or a fresh cooked omelet for me. The boys enjoy piling their plates high with pastries, toast, delicious fruits and of course coco pops! After breakfast we heard down to the beach, then move onto the pool for a bit. We walked along the beach today to a local beachfront cafe for lunch (the usual chicken with lemongrass and chilly for me) then Grant and I enjoy reading while the boys swim in the ocean.

 

I am just beginning to feel a little anxious about our trip coming to an end. I've started photographing little details...so in some way i can bring them home with me. My favourite drinks are fresh lemon juice and Vietnamese iced coffee (strong black vietnamese coffee over ice with sweetened condensed milk...highly addictive, even Grant drinks it regularly!)

 

Again we spend a couple of hours doing not much...and wander back along the beach late in the afternoon.

Tonight we finally catch up with Grants gorgeous cousin Sharnie and her partner Charlie. It is lovely to see familiar faces and catch up on family news. We caught a cab there but decide to walk home along the beach, it's a couple of km's but so lovely to see all the cafes and resorts alight with beautiful lanterns and fairy lights. They certainly know about decorative lighting here...I'm thinking that electricity safety standards are fairly relaxed :)

 

 

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Day twenty three, stormy Phu Quoc morning

Monday January 14 2013

The day began with some wild surf (big waves for this part of the world anyway ;) it felt so stormy I fleeting wondered if it might get worse (my wild imagination imagining a typhoon!)

The surf crashing over the sand was quite spectacular..

I expected we might need to stay indoors for the day but once we headed out it wasn't windy at all and we had a wonderful day. We once again braved the bikes and rode a few km's to the other end of the beach. There's a great beach cafe called Rory's (run by an Australian). We had a yummy lunch then spent the next few hours swimming, drinking iced coffee's and I even enjoyed a massage on the beach ($5) If you look carefully you can see a small monkey near me. The boys ended up wandering over and had so much fun playing with it (I just had to push away those animal disease fears and let them enjoy the rare experience)

 

There are beautiful Vietnamese women who trudge up and down the beach in the heat, Carrying their very heavy load of fruit all day. I have bought a few things that I simply haven't wanted or needed...because I can't look into their pleading eyes and say no. I have a lovely collection of black lace fans I bought from a girl in Saigon...and I ended up buying bananas today.

 

After a cold beer late in the afternoon we rode back to our resort for a swim. Dinner was at a new tapas restaurant called Itaca...we were even serenaded by a Spanish guitarist which the kids were thrilled with.

It was a perfect day.

 

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Day twenty two, Phu Quoc Island

Sunday january 13 2013

It really is a smaller world than ever, with social media keeping us in touch. We cannot believe one of Grants cousins is right here...staying just a couple of hundred meters down the beach! We tried to catch up with Sharni and Charlie last night but they couldnt find the 'Safari Bar' where we planned to meet up. We had heard good things about this slightly out of town bar...caught a taxi there and then discovered 'no food tonight'. We stayed for a drink and while we were there a Vietnamese girl (the owner) turned up...and the bar man brings us the menus. Such is the way of things here!

 

Today we went back to Buddy's for lunch. We rode the free resort bikes. There's a fine line between wanting our boys to have a wonderful adventure...and keeping them safe. Riding bikes here poses a few challenges. There are no helmets...kids dont even wear them when they are on their parents motorbikes! We have to ride on the right hand side of the road, remember to look the other way and make turns into the correct lane. We also have to avoid colliding with other Bikes, motorbikes, taxis and the occasional small truck. Everyone constantly toots their horn -its a courtesy to let us know they are passing, but its disconcerting at the same time! Add to that, the resort free use bicycles are old and rusty :)

Buddy's is in the middle of town and serves toasted sandwiches...a bit of a luxury! They also serve ice cream...Yum!

 

The town here is essentially a small fishing port. It's not really touristy which I quite like. The marina smells very fishy and there are old wooden fishing boats Constantly moving in and out.

 

 

I have noticed a few of these vintage bonds motorbikes around...isn't it cool..

Once again the afternoon is spent frolicking in the warm ocean. We enjoy the setting sun here..it's a beautiful sight.Dinner tonight is a bit of a treat. There's a resort here that quoted us $900 a night...obviously we aren't staying there but being a big fan of luxury resorts we decided to head there for dinner. Leaving the boys with their room service dinner and a DVD (and a new friend from Sydney) Grant and I enjoyed a beautiful night at La Veranda's restaurant. We chose Vietnamese food which was absolutely fantastic. The beef with lemongrass WA actually on lemongrass skewers. The resort is just sublime...but probably not ideal for children!

 

 

 

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Day twenty one, Phu Quoc

Saturday January 12 2013

Another relaxing day. There are things to see and do here, but there's also the option of not doing much at all, which seems to suit us right now.

We found a simple restaurant right on the beach for lunch...and ate the most fabulous food. Grant and I are enjoying the Vietnamese iced coffee and I have a couple of favorite meals...fresh spring rolls or chicken with lemongrass and chilly-yumm! This particular place also did hamburgers for $1.50 and they were pretty good!

The monkey chained to a ladder out the back was almost as entertaining as the pack of dogs fighting on the sand. The dogs here were once wild. They have pointy sharp teeth and a line of hair on their back which runs forward instead of back. I must get a photo of one...apparently they aren't dangerous but we steer clear of them just the same :)

 

Late afternoons are spent with a drink in hand while we watch the kids having fun in the water. The boys have endless energy and are pretty exhausted at the end of each day..

 

 

 

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Day twenty, Phu Quoc

Friday January 11 2013

The weather is pretty much perfect year round here...averages 27 degrees.

It's about 30 degrees every day now and fairly cloudy, with the sun coming our for a few hours a day. The boys discover the various activities on offer, including beachside chess, canoes, row boat and floating pontoon...and everyone's happy.

The resort is perfect for us. It's a bit older and needs some maintenance but we have a large suite with two bedrooms, and an ocean view...there are plenty of activities for the boys, the beach has dozens of casual cafes and restaurants, the town is a short (but hairy!) bike ride away. Perfect.

 

We ate dinner at Peppers Restaurant...great food. Charlie even enjoyed spaghetti bolognaise ..he was very happy!

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Day nineteen Mekong Delta...and off to Phu Quoc

We were up at dawn today to visit the famous floating markets. Such an amazing sight. All sorts of produce, fruit and vegetables for sale...some larger wooden barges but often just tiny boats. Each seller has a tall pole with their wares (maybe a pumpkin and cabbage) hanging from it to advertise what they are selling. There was a lot of activity and although everyone was obviously busy going about their morning's work, there was also a quiet and relaxed feel about the proceedings. No-one ever seems to be in a hurry here. We see lots of little children and babies on board the boats too...and a mother rocking her baby to sleep in a hammock. What a beautiful simple life.

I am fascinated by the way of life here...the ramshackle houses that sit over the water are both a reminder of the poverty here, and of a lifestyle that probably hasn't changed in decades.

We have a walk around a riverside market which is full of everything you could imagine...from frogs, meat and snails...to every kind of seafood imaginable. Not to mention the freshest veges, herbs, fruits and flowers..

 

Later in the day we fly to Phu Quoc Island. It's just off the Cambodian coast but still Vietnam. Our room overlooks the ocean, and I feel some serenity here already..

 

 

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Day eighteen, Mekong delta

January 9 2013

Today we began our short novernight visit to the Mekong Delta. We have a private guide 'Sunny' who keeps us constantly entertained. He is 68 years old, fought in the Vietnam war and he constantly laughing. Everyone seeme to know him...and he teaches us a lot. We stop at a roadside stall selling gourmet rats...a bit of a delicacy in the area apparently. Sunny offers to buy one and have it cooked up for lunch...but we can't bring ourselves to do it...

The day is filled with exploring the area. Although it is primarily a rural area, it is heavily populated and intensively farmed. We had an amazing day filled with a couple of boat rides and amazing lunch with a whole cooked fish served up with mint and cucumber in delicious rice paper rolls.

 

 

We visited a coconut candy 'factory' where delicious sweets such a coconut caramels and popped rice candy are made. Everything is done by hand, sorting through nuts to remove any imperfections, candy is rolled out, cut AND wrapped by hand.

The absolute highlights of the day were a serene and peaceful paddle through one of the smaller rivers. There must be thousands of these, where local people live a simple life so far removed to our own it is hard to imagine. We also enjoyed cycling through a small village, although it was quite hot and the path was a little narrow in parts...especially when motorcycles needed to pass!

We ended the day in a lovely restaurant overlooking the river. Thankfully by the time we went to bed the very loud karaoke party in out hotel had finished!

 

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Day seventeen, oops!

Tuesday January 8 2013

I had heard there is a water park here in Saigon...it doesn't have great reviews but I figured our kids would love a fun day out. Taxis (like almost everything) are cheap here so it only cost about $7 for the 30 min trip out to the suburbs. We lined up with another family...and even paid for tickets (no English here!) only to discover the water park is closed on Tuesday's and we had probably bought tickets for the little kids fun park next door! Money refunded and we stood in the heat beside a busy noisy road and wondered what to do! After a coffee (unexpectantly iced but it was pretty good) we decided there weren't any other options in the area so decided to grab another cab and head back into the city. We had a scare crossing the road as a motorbike turned around a car and clipped into Tom. He has a graze on his leg and was fairly shaken up (we all were). An interesting cab ride followed with a driver who spoke no English at all ( obviously we don't expect English to be spoken but it is common in the more touristy areas).

Crossing the roads here takes a fair amount of effort. Even smaller roads carry many lanes of motorbikes...often carrying several people, a bit of luggage, shopping or even larger items such as a new tv or a couple of large pigs! There are pedestrian crossings on most corners but there is no slowing down or giving way :) the trick is to simply step out in front of the oncoming traffic...and steadily walk across the road. Motorbikes will go around you...but cars are more likely to beep their horns or run you down. You certainly need your wits about you. The other major hazard is traffic is remembering to look right , and left as there is every possibility someone is driving in the wrong direction...or even on the footpath if that suits :)

We did a bit of shopping on the way back...a few designer tshirts for $5 each and Harry continued his quest to find the perfect inexpensive watch :) apparently this is the one:

The afternoon was spent on the hotel pool. We are thankful to have it!

My photo of the day is this one. There are a few funky bars opening up in Saigon..and we stopped at this one for a drink before dinner. Wine is quite expensive here and can cost $5-$10 a glass. No more than we pay in Australia but when it costs around 50c for a beer and maybe $3-$4 for a cocktail it's a sacrifice I have had to make!

 

 

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Day sixteen, Chu Chi tunnels

Monday January 7 2013

Today we visited the famous Chu Chi tunnels. We chose a tour that took us there by speed boat, rather than bus...which is a much nicer way to travel and it's wonderful to see life on the river.

The Chu Chi tunnels are a network of connecting underground tunnels that span more than 250km in length. They were used by the Viet Cong and also lived in by a couple of thousand local Vietnamese during the Vietnam war. The site is now a very well organsied tourist destination with an interesting (if not ever so slightly anti-American) film then a wonderful tour though some of the surrounding areas in Chu Chi. We we able to squeeze though one of the original openings (grants shoulders wouldn't fit so you can imagine how small they are!). There is also a section which has been widened for fat tourists...although I have to say it was squashy, hot, dark and claustrophobic!

 

The conditions for those who lived in the tunnels were difficult to say the least. The heat was unbearable in the middle of the day and air, water and food scarce. Many of those who spend a long time in the tunnels suffered temporary blindness when they emerged. Disease was also a major problem, malaria was the second cause of death after battle wounds.

 

There was a macabre display of barbaric traps that turned my stomach...what a brutal war. Adults were also able to purchase some rounds and shoot off one of several rifles or a machine gun...the boys were devastated to learn they weren't old enough!

This tour has probably been one of the highlights for the kids...but while they enjoyed climbing on a destroyed US tank and asking the guide all sorts of questions, I couldn't help but notice bomb craters and remember that we were walking through virtual killing fields. Thousands of civilians died here, the soil and water is still contaminated with chemicals...babies in Vietnam are still born with deformities because of agent orange. It will take over 100 years for it to clear.

 

 

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Day sixteen, Chu Chi tunnels

Monday January 7 2013

Today we visited the famous Chu Chi tunnels. We chose a tour that took us there by speed boat, rather than bus...which is a much nicer way to travel and it's wonderful to see life on the river.

The Chu Chi tunnels are a network of connecting underground tunnels that span more than 250km in length. They were used by the Viet Cong and also lived in by a couple of thousand local Vietnamese during the Vietnam war. The site is now a very well organsied tourist destination with an interesting (if not ever so slightly anti-American) film then a wonderful tour though some of the surrounding areas in Chu Chi. We we able to squeeze though one of the original openings (grants shoulders wouldn't fit so you can imagine how small they are!). There is also a section which has been widened for fat tourists...although I have to say it was squashy, hot, dark and claustrophobic!

 

The conditions for those who lived in the tunnels were difficult to say the least. The heat was unbearable in the middle of the day and air, water and food scarce. Many of those who spend a long time in the tunnels suffered temporary blindness when they emerged. Disease was also a major problem, malaria was the second cause of death after battle wounds.

 

There was a macabre display of barbaric traps that turned my stomach...what a brutal war. Adults were also able to purchase some rounds and shoot off one of several rifles or a machine gun...the boys were devastated to learn they weren't old enough!

This tour has probably been one of the highlights for the kids...but while they enjoyed climbing on a destroyed US tank and asking the guide all sorts of questions, I couldn't help but notice bomb craters and remember that we were walking through virtual killing fields. Thousands of civilians died here, the soil and water is still contaminated with chemicals...babies in Vietnam are still born with deformities because of agent orange. It will take over 100 years for it to clear.

 

 

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Day fifteen, some down time :)

Sunday January 6 2013

Today we decided to take a break...one of the reasons for spending more time in each place than we probably need. With three boys in tow it's important to have some time off from sightseeing, and just watch tv, hang out at the pool and take it easy.

I managed to have my nails done today. I regularly have them done in Melbourne, and the girls are ALWAYS Vietnamese so I just assumed their would be nails salons everywhere...but no, It actually took a bit of research!

Saigon is a huge city, much more modern than Hanoi...and more developed. There are signs of prosperity and wealth, fancy hotels and designer stores...but I think for most local Vietnamese people life is still fairly basic and certainly not easy..

 

 

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